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To the Island: Isola San Giulio, Italy

I have been a firm believer that a landscape is at its most aesthetically pleasing when its left untouched. But the Italians have truly challenged this notion for me. Throughout the country beautiful...

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Sacro Monte + Villa Crespi, Orta San Giulio

From Piazza Motta, a cobbled street leads uphill to a sunflower-hued church. Rising from the church’s apex is a statue of Christ, who is flanked by two angels. His arms are open, his head is back, and...

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To Barolo Wine Country – La Morra, Piedmont, Italy

From Orta San Giulio, we headed south the next morning, destined for the town of La Morra in the Barolo wine country. For all four of us, this was the reason for our trip: seeing this legendary land...

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Staying at Villa Carita, La Morra, Italy

How important are accommodations? Depends on who you ask, but what’s not up for debate is this: when you’ve come across the perfect place, suddenly, the rest of the trip falls into place. The perfect...

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Dining in Alba and Barolo Wine Country

Planning a vacation with friends can be a study in contrasts. In the build-up to our trip to Piedmont, Adam contacted a friend of his father’s, a wine buyer who knows the area well. What he responded...

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Obsession in Alba, Italy: White Truffles & Wine

The white truffle. As Jeremy Clarkson called it. “Looks like a mummified testicle.” The morning after binging at Ristorante Bovio, I started slowly, as any good hungover traveler would. I nursed a...

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The Good Life in Barolo, Italy

From Alba, we cruised through the golden fog to a cleft in the hills, seeking out the road to Barolo. Adam was growing more instinctual with his driving. His command of routes, landmarks and signage...

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And Then, There Is Barbaresco

Italy is flush with rivalries. There’s rivalries of the football sort — Roma vs. Lazio, Inter vs. AC Milan — and there are rivalries of ancient carnage and political power — think Florence vs. Siena,...

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Morning in the Langhe Hills, Piedmont, Italy

(Click on image for a larger view.) October 16, 2012. The final of seven full days in Italy. The next day, we would be off on an early morning flight home from Malpensa Airport, back to the joys of...

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Morning in La Morra, Italy

(Click on images for a larger view) Fresh off sunrise in the magnificent Langhe Hills, we arrived among the familiar hills of La Morra. Now that the sun was shining and we had genuine baby-blue skies...

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